...Where to begin. Last week I went to Istanbul, Turkey along with 55 other sociology students and saying it was an amazing experience is a total understatement. We arrived on a Saturday and we whisked off to the most delicious dinner I have probably ever eaten in my life (this pattern continued throughout the ENTIRE week--so much good food!). Our hotel was right behind Taxim Square and adjacent to Istagal which is the main pedestrian street (comparable to Copenhagen’s Stroget for my avid readers J
.) and this is where we spent most of our time. Istanbul is just alive, there’s no way to really convey the feel of the city but it’s bustling in a way that is overwhelming in it’s subtlety, (if that makes sense at all). The first day we were in the huge group and did the big sights = Hippodrome, The Blue Mosque, Ayasofya, and Topkapi Palace.
A well at the Hippodrome.
Inside the Blue Mosque (formally the Sultan Ahmet Mosque).
Me inside the Blue Mosque (photo cred: Lucy Gleysteen)
Outside the Blue Mosque with Jenny, Kris and Ben!
Inside Ayasofya, absolutely breathtaking and this building is 1,500 years old...
The symbols for Allah and the Prophet Mohammad and in between? Oh thats Mary and Jesus.
Ayasofya was originally a church during the time of Constantine and after it was converted into a mosque under Ottoman rule out of respect the Ottomans didn't deface any Christian symbols, they covered some up and left some where they are like this depiction of the virgin and Jesus. (Hmmmm could there be a lesson in here America?? In a country that borders Iran, Iraq and Syria these two religions co-exist...cough cough...)
Topkika Palace: the Sultan's Harem
Bedroom in the Harem
Exhibit on religious symbols at the Palace--quite possibly the coolest thing I saw in Istanbul.
This exhibit had parts of the original Kabba (that big ol’ square thing in the center of Mecca), as well as relics of different figures in Islam including a cemented footprint of the Prophet Mohammed (along with some pieces of his beard). I couldn’t take pictures inside but when I saw the gold trimmed ledges from the Kabba I was just blown away without words as I was in the presence of something so sacred to Islam, and seeing this while being in a country that’s 90% Muslim made the experience even more moving. Verses of the Koran were being sung in Arabic in the background of the exhibit and it was just amazing.
The vast majority of our time was spent hearing lectures and academic visits. We were divided into groups based on our areas of interested and had academic/cultural visits accordingly. My group, “Political Islam”, heard many lectures concerning toleration, the potential for Turkey to become a presidential system, education reform, minority issues, etc. And we were able to meet with the AK Parti Youth Branch (The AKP or Justice and Development Party is the current party in power under Prime Minister Erdogan, very controversial party at the moment as they are conservative and preach secularization under the umbrella of religious freedom and reform and are very much criticized for an ulterior agenda for increased Islamization in Turkey).
As far as the people of Istanbul I will readily admit I have never seen so many burqas in my life. The dress of the Turkish women was about 1/3 by demographics. A third were in the full burqa with a niqab covering everything but their eyes. Another third wore the hijab covering their head but not their face. The last third was in total western dress. It was by no means overwhelming we were obviously foreigners.
Another experience that I have no photographic evidence of is going to the Turkish baths. This was quite an experience. Before it’s development Turkey’s water was under control of the central government and privatized water systems didn’t exist and no water or plumbing existed in homes. People would go to public common baths and these baths are still up and running today as a symbol and a traditional Turkish experience. Now more of a spa you can go and pick from a list of services such as massages and facials. But the real experience is in the scrubbing…
You go to the baths and men and women are separated (Sorry you cannot go with your gay friend, I tried.) You are sent upstairs where you get a locker and a changing room. You are given a pair of bikini bottom type swim pants, and that’s all. In your topless state you go downstairs and a nice Turkish mama ushers you into the main room of the bath. Steamy and sauna like the room is very spacious with a dome at the top and large raised stone in the center. You are with several other women and you lie on the heated stone for 20 minutes and soak in the relaxing atmosphere. After a couple minutes you even forget everyone is topless and lie on your back on the hot stone and let your back muscles just unwind. Once you have been there for your twenty minutes you receive a friendly (but firm) slosh of water across you--this is your Turkish mama’s signal it is time for your scrub down. You lie on your stomach, then back, then sit up, as a large and in charge women in a bra and underpants scrubs off your first layer of skin. My Turkish mama even tapped me on the shoulder so I could look down and see all the dirt she was scrubbing off…so kind. Then you are taken over to fountain where your mama rinses you off and shampoos your hair. After this additional 20 minute experience you go into a little side room with large heated pools of water where you can sit and relax even more. After this you are encouraged to sit in the waiting room for another 20 minutes and let your body adjust from being in the hot rooms. There are showers and blow dryers in your changing rooms and you can sit and have a cup of tea or go as you please there is no time limit.
There were many women in the baths, some locals, some foreigners and all different shapes and sizes. Probably the best part of the experience was lying on my hot stone as a couple, then a couple more, then a couple more, sociology majors trickled in until there were about a dozen of us (all topless) chillin’ in the Turkish baths. The boys were (and still are) extremely jealous of what we all have seen to say the least. At first it was a little awkward but then as time passed and you realized that no one around you was at all miffed at the “state of things” I began to relax and thoroughly enjoyed my Turkish baths experience, it was needless to say one of a kind.
Here are some more pictures from the trip of different things!
Lamps at the Grand Bazaar
Supposedly one of the nails from the cross at the Greek Patriarch Church
(yes, the Greek Patriarch is in Turkey not Greece..)
Panoramic view from atop a tower, you can see the Bosphorus (water between Europe and Asain sides of Istanbul!) Topkapi Palace on the tip, then Ayasofya, then the Blue Mosque next to that!
So many incredible views!!
daily activity = tea and hookah
I tried to upload a video here but it didn't work so I will put it on my facebook! It is me walking out of a restaurant and hearing the call to prayer from the Blue Mosque for the first time. It is absolutely unreal. The traditional Muslim prayers happen five times a day, (at sunrise, after lunch, before dinner, after dinner, and before bed). The Mosques typically call the middle three and we got accustomed to what time it would happen and we would all rush outside or throw open our windows at each call during the day and just stand in awe of it's beauty.
My trip to Istanbul was so moving and thought provoking. I found myself jounaling on the regular about everything going on around me. I will leave you with this story and thought about my experience. While visiting with the AK Parti Youth Branch and young man said to us "Can I say something to you about Islam in America?" to which we all without question told him he could. He looked into all of our eyes and said, "I know there are many Americans who hate Osama Bin Laden, but I promise you Muslims in American hate him 10,000 times more because he ruined their lives [as well as all the victims and their families of Sept. 11th]". Tears welled up in my eyes and I have been haunted/thinking about this comment ever since. An unforgetable experience.